Did you notice that it is already October?
(Not actually a gravestone. Part of a fountain.)
It is an exciting month, is October, so this post will have a lot of exclamation points. It’s a good thing I am fond of Portland International Airport (PDX), as I will be there more often than usual.
As I have previously mentioned, I’ll be speaking at the Washington Library Media Association conference in Yakima on Friday, October 9th. Still taking advice about what to include in my presentation!
Shortly thereafter I will come back to PDX to retrieve the esteemed M.T. Anderson, who’ll be speaking Monday, October 12th — get your tickets now!
And then a few days later, I’ll be returning to PDX yet again, this time to spend a very long time in the air in order to get to France, where Steve and I will be attending the Quai des Bulles convention! This is super cool, but also nervous-making, as I have never been to France and speak no French. But since the trip is really about Steve’s work, not mine, I plan to spend most of my time pretending it is the twenties and I am an expat: aka sitting in cafes and writing.
I know some of you have been to France — advice about how not to be an annoying American, other than very quickly learning French? Recommendations of where to get international adapters for electronics? French artists whose work I shouldn’t miss at the show?
And, tell me about your Octobers!
grrlpup
October 1, 2009 at 7:14 pmTwo tips: first, French shoppers don’t generally walk into shops, browse around, and leave without buying anything, the way people spend whole days doing here. There’s lots of window-shopping and even hovering around the door peering in, but once you’re in, just walking out is a bit strange and rude.
Similarly, every interaction starts with a greeting. I think lots of Americans are so busy mentally rehearsing their French in their heads that they just launch into what they want. Very rude! Say “Bonjour Madame” or “Bonjour Monsieur,” wait for a response, then get into the transaction.
I don’t think Parisians are as curt as their reputation paints them. When I was there, the Lebanese immigrants in particular were incredibly friendly and gracious, so I recommend trying a Lebanese bakery or restaurant if you see one!
Jenn Manley Lee
October 1, 2009 at 10:45 pmRe: advise for getting around in France: just make an effort. Get out your phrase book and show your good intention to try to communicate in French. You’ll be surprised how many natives meet you at least half way, either with whatever English they know, patience and/or humor.
Dylan Meconis
October 2, 2009 at 12:09 amFrench folks are generally pretty accommodating if you make even the faintest of efforts.
I recommend buying a street guide. You can probably find one in Powell’s, or anywhere in Paris that sells books. Getting a good Paris street atlas will save you many confusing conversations with locals. Get one detailed enough that it has spiral binding, not just a fold-out map.
OFTEN CONFUSING: The first floor (“premier etage”) is what we’d call the second floor. “Rez-de-chaussée” is the ground floor. So the ground floor is often labeled R, the next floor up is 1, etc.
HUNGRY: When hungry and desperate, you can never go wrong ordering a Croque Madame or Croque Monsieur sandwich at a brasserie. It will tide you over for ages and I never had a bad one, even in tourist zones. Also good: any kind of sandwich or panini served by Greeks or Algerians and containing french fries. Crepes.
TRANSIT: The Metro is very clean and easy to navigate even if you speak no French; there are just lots of stairs in some places, so bring walkin’ shoes.
ADAPTERS: go to the Portland Travel Co. two blocks away from the studio (across from Hush Hush). They have scads and will help you pick the right one.
CAFES: Don’t just spend your time in cafes! They are nice enough, but largely predictable, and you do have to pay rent in coffee a bit more frequently than you might here, where “cafe” is code for “home office”.
Paris has so much wacky stuff that even a single English-speaking lady can easily get to and enjoy on the cheap. I totally recommend Rick Steves’ books, they are dorky but very helpful.
Near Notre Dame: Shakespeare & Co. bookstore. If you get hungry for English conversation or a good book, just wander in there and enjoy the musty smell and weird crannies with your fellow expats.
Aggggghhhh take me with you!
Dylan Meconis
October 2, 2009 at 12:13 amOh hey, it’s in Saint-Malo. You’re going to be totally fine, the NW coast of French is regularly inundated with Brits.
Susan
October 2, 2009 at 4:01 amsryan! You have to let me know if you’re going to be in Paris at all — I’d love to see you again! You’re welcome to stay with us on your way to and/or from St. Malo, but at the very least we’d love to meet up with you for a meal. Secondly, I agree with the above advice, esp. the saying “bonjour” when you enter anywhere. People are really serious about that. And finally, in a shameless bid to get you to consider spending a bit of time in Paris, I’ll point you to the back issues of Paris Notes, which are now free online: http://www.parisnotes.com/
À bientôt!
Delia
October 2, 2009 at 6:06 amThird on the “Bonjour Madame/Monsieur” when you go in a shop. And I’d add “Merci, aurevoir” when you leave, for extra Politeness Points. But I wouldn’t worry. You’ve got a lovely manner, a gentle voice, and a wicked sense of humor. The French will love you to bits.
Saint-Malo is a lovely place. Brittany is justly famous for her crepes (which aren’t like anything you’ve ever eaten here) and her seafood. Fruits de mer is mostly shellfish, including tiny, snail-like winkles you really eat with a pin and clams and oysters and crabs. It will be probably be cold and wet, kind of like Portland in winter, only with less central heating. Take layers.
Need someone to carry your luggage?
Sara
October 4, 2009 at 7:09 pmHey, thanks, everyone, for the helpful and encouraging comments and resources! I must obtain a phrase book.
Suze, wow, you’re in Paris! We will be there for part of the trip, but the itinerary we’ve gotten isn’t super-detailed, and I’m not sure whether or not our hosts are assuming I’ll accompany Steve to the various store signings that he’s doing before the con. Email me once we’ve arrived? I should have more of a clue about my schedule by then.